Saturday surf

   Nick calls me at 8am to see if I am up and ready. I am not, but I say that I am. After only three hours of sleep I drag myself out of bed and pour myself a cup of coffee, wax my board, and throw on my board shorts. Shortly later Nick rolls up and we’re of f to the beach.

   The morning throws us the ‘ole switcheroo. Normally the wind is calm in the early morning, then, the wind gets on it towards the afternoon.  We meet our photographer and walk up Hermosa Beach checking the breaks as we go. The waves are only mediocre, but we paddle out anyhow.

    It’s a little soupy and choppy out there and I Haven’t surfed in almost a month, (have been working way too much) so I end up falling on my first wave. I watch Nick get a wave with the other Justin,(our camera man) snapping shots. It’s a decent little nugget of a wave and he gets a nice drop in.

   Another set comes, so I paddle adjacent to the waves to get a better position on the prime peak. The second wave of the set swells up and builds a decently steep wall. I arc into the wave and paddle for it. It’s another decent little nugget with the lip of the wave pitching over slightly not quite barreling.

   The good waves a far between so we only catch a few that are photo worthy. Towards the end of our allotted time of photography, the wind drops off and the sun comes out. Almost instantly the break glasses off into actual nice head high beauties that break in clean line with a pitching hollow spot at the peak.

   My lack of exercise over the last month results in two cramped calf muscles, so I get out of the water a little bit bitter, watching the semi perfect waves peel along the sand bar.









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